Gamle Oslo, meaning “Old Oslo”, is the borough of Oslo’s old town. Laying at the city’s heart, the borough emcompasses a vast area from the city centre such as Grønland and Tøyen, stretching all the way to Ekeberg, a small mountain on the city centre’s eastern side whose view over the city and Oslofjord inspired Munch’s famous painting The Scream.
Following the gentrification process that took place across the whole Scandinavia since 1970s, Gamle Oslo has harboured great ambitions for a thorough makeover through a large-scale housing renewal programme from 1979 until 1994. Compared with the neighbouring borough Grünerløkka, Gamle Oslo today still fails to attract the young and aspiring upper middle class from Oslo’s affulent western side to move over.
Yet thanks to the area’s diversified social mix—with a large portion of the population here having an immigration background—Gamle Oslo retains its somewhat hipster roots and boasts a more vibrant vibe compared with the traditionally affluent Norweigian neighbourhoods. Tøyen, the heart of Gamle Oslo, is now home to many artisan bakeries and rosteries, thanks to its approximity to the city centre and still comparatively low rent. Ensjø, a neighourhood used to be overly crowed with car retail shops, has also transformed into a residential area, with new subway lines, new residential and commercial housing development plans over the next decade. Gamle Oslo may not and should not be the next Grünerløkka, but it is and will continue to be a fun place to hang out.
Farine
When Farine (meaning “flour” in French) took over the yellow building at the heart of Eastern Oslo’s Kampen area, everything felt right. The building was originally built by a baker in 1878, where he produced bread in the basement while keeping his horses in the stable in the back. After a big fire accident in the area in 1879, the building was purchased by the Norwegian state. Today, it is included in the Kampen preservation zone by the city’s cultural heritage management office (Byantikvaren i Oslo).
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Håndbakt
Tucked away in a quiet yard shielded by a brick wall, Håndbakt (meaning “hand-baked” in Norwegian) is located on the ground floor of Factory Tøyen, a coworking space. When the bakery opened its doors in September 2021, it was the first plant-based micro bakery in the whole Norway. Today, it has become one of the most popular brunch/coffee places in Eastern Oslo.
The red brick building that houses the bakery is a renovated factory building that dates back to 1911. Echoing the building’s historical atmosphere, the bakery’s interior is decorated in a modern industrial style, with wires and steel pipes running across the ceiling, and naked red brick walls complimented by broad-leaved plants. Thanks to the high ceiling, large windows and dimmed lighting, the space conveys a sense of airy openness, and at same time exudes a welcoming warmth of comfort.
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Ille Brød
Few names in Oslo’s bakery circle can invoke as much respect and awe as Ille Brød. Established in 2015 in a home kitchen in Western Oslo’s Bygdøy area, under the name “Bygdøy surdeigsbakeri” (“Bygdøy sourdough bakery”), the half-serious-half-hobby micro-bakery gradually took shape, and eventually in 2017 moved into a proper production facility on Lakkegata, where the shop is still located today.
The two founders, Martin Fjeld og Casper Lugg, are both from Fredrikstad, a city roughly 90 km south of Oslo. In their dialect, «ille bra» (which can be loosely translated as “awfully good”) is a phrase commonly used to describe something particularly good. Jokingly, the two young bakers started to refer to their particularly successful bread as «ille brød» (something to the effect of “awfully (good) bread”). Hence the bakery’s name.
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Papegøye
Papegøye, originally named “Neongrut”, is an all-vegan cafè in the day and a wine bar in the evening. Papegøye means “parrot” in Norwegian, a bird that can “speak many languages and gather all sorts of colours” and it will best represent the customers and shop, according to the owners. Hence the name change.
Seating area
Located at the heart of Tøyen, the café features a rustic interior design on the verge of urban ruin, with a large naked brick wall running behind the service counter, vintage furniture and green plants. Thanks to the high-ceiling and carefully matched Ikea lamps, the space feels airy and bright.
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Kiosk!
With an area of 8 sq.m, Kiosk! is arguably the smallest coffee bar in Oslo. Located inside a renovated petrol station from 1935, the mini-coffee bar features a dashing bright turquoise blue strip wrapped around its roof, adding a touch of lively cheerfulness to the whole neighbourhood.
Façade of Kiosk!
The owner and the brain behind this bubbling creative oasis is Kari Anne Solfjeld Eid, an experienced entrepreneur and designer who has also founded the Oslo-based design agency Hoi! and Whee!, a cargo-bike rental subscription provider.
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